Where Shall We Go Today?
Travel guides and inspiration from the road.
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Farewell to New Delhi and India
A look back at 3 weeks in India: tea, language and religion, traffic, haggling over prices, transport and gratitude for living in Portugal.
Agra: saying goodbye
Last day in Agra watching people feed birds, the elevated metro and craftsmen, then a delayed train back to New Delhi and odd scenes at the station.
Agra: the Taj Mahal and the Baby Taj
A visit to the Taj Mahal at sunrise, with dust in the air, its history and Itmad-ud-Daulah, the Baby Taj, on the other side of the Yamuna river.
Jaipur: saying goodbye
A train ride from Jaipur to Agra and observations on daily life in India: streets, rubbish, water, tobacco, animals and money.
Jaipur: museum and fort
Rain in the morning, temples, the Albert Museum, the caste system, bazaars, the Hawa Mahal and a walk up to Nahargarh Fort for dinner and city lights.
Jaipur: the palaces
Visiting the Jal Mahal, Amber Palace and the forts, street-stall snacks, a packed bus back and the day’s end at Tal Katora lake and the City Palace.
Jaipur, the Pink City
Arriving in Jaipur after baggage checks, Republic Day, the origin of the city’s pink colour and a first walk with a view of the Hawa Mahal.
Varanasi: saying goodbye
The bus to the airport after a long wait and a reflection on Varanasi as Shiva’s sacred city, with the story of Ganesha.
Varanasi: markets and rituals
Wandering the alleys of old Varanasi, markets, a ritual in memory of the dead, an Ayurvedic massage by the river and preparing for the flight to Jaipur.
Varanasi: Sarnath
Train to Sarnath, a Buddhist site, chatting with locals on the way back, Kashi Vishwanath temple, cremations at Manikarnika Ghat and Basant Panchami.
Varanasi: the Ghats
A boat trip on the river Ganges, the morning ceremony at Assi Ghat, a walk along the Ghats, Namo Ghat, Café Nirvana and the Ganga Aarti in the evening.
Arriving in Varanasi
Flight to Varanasi 1 hour 30 minutes late, unexpected sandwiches on board, a shared taxi, a maze of streets to the hostel and a first walk by the river.
Goodbye Mumbai
Leaving Mumbai for Varanasi, with reflections on the Indian people, domestic tourism, being careful with food and street snacks.
Mumbai: Parsis, Gandhi and Marine Drive
The Parsi Tower of Silence, Hanging Gardens, Gandhi’s house museum, the Kotachiwadi quarter, Wankhede stadium and snacks at Marine Drive.
Mumbai: the city
Breakfast at Café Leopold, historic buildings, Crawford Market, a postcard at the post office, Mumba Devi temple, Bhau Daji museum and the cinema.
Mumbai: Elephanta Island and Bollywood
Ferry from the Gateway of India to the Elephanta Caves, the cinema museum, Mahalakshmi temple, Haji Ali mosque and Pani Puri at Chowpatty.
Arriving in Mumbai
Flight from Udaipur to Mumbai, checked baggage included in the ticket, metro to Colaba, street food, sunset at Cuffe Parade and Marine Drive.
Udaipur: the City Palace
Morning at Udaipur’s City Palace, afternoon in the old town, Gulab Bagh park and the Navlakha Mahal museum, and a farewell to the city of lakes.
Udaipur: sunrise in the mountains
An early scooter ride to the Aravali range, a climb on foot to the Karni Mata Temple and a descent along a path that turned out to be closed.
Udaipur: the city of lakes
Metro and flight from New Delhi to Udaipur, arriving in the old town, the Kite Festival on the rooftop, a temple ritual and a folk dance show.
New Delhi’s main monuments
A day with a private driver: Red Fort, Jama Masjid, Akshardham Temple, Humayun’s Tomb, the National Museum and dinner at Daryaganj.
Wandering around New Delhi
First day in Delhi: train tickets and a private driver, Gurdwara Bangla Sahib temple, Lodhi Garden, Khan Market and an expensive beer.