Oia – Nigrán (25 km)
20 May 2023
By Romeu MaiaI started stage 6, from Oia to Nigrán, at 7 in the morning. I set off without breakfast but soon found a hotel with its cafeteria open and stopped to have it. A group of Portuguese cyclists who were also doing the Camino stopped at the same place.
Then I carried on walking by the sea to the Cape Silleiro lighthouse, which also has a statue of the Virgin up on top.
When I got to Baiona I did the Passo Boi loop, which goes 3 km around the Monterreal castle and fortress, and then continued to the historic centre of Baiona.
Today, on the way, 3 more churches and 1 chapel where I did the ritual of 3 laps with the stone in my hand, which I then leave there. So far that makes 19 churches and 57 laps.
I had lunch in Baiona, at the restaurant Baiona Playa Taparía, the set menu for €15, with mussels as a starter, fish as a main, a glass of wine and coffee. At this lunch I met a Swiss pilgrim called Benilde, who was also doing the Camino and was sitting at the table next to mine, and I chatted with her during lunch.
After lunch I carried on to the Ramallosa Roman Bridge, which I used to cross the River Miñor.
On the way there a few drops fell, which was enough for a rehearsal of how to quickly put on my rain gear, which is basically my raincoat. The waterproof cover for my backpack that I ordered online only arrived after I started the Camino and I had to improvise one with a towel and a Continente carrier bag. This time there were only a few drops, but it seems the rain is waiting for me further ahead.
After crossing the Roman Bridge, I found a chapel and, as I started the ritual, I bumped into Sule, with whom I had been and had dinner the day before. After a brief exchange of stories and laughs, I went on my way and she stayed there, since her walk for the day had ended and I still had a few km ahead.
I got to the Residencial La Chica, in Nigrán, which cost me €12, when it was past 5 pm, with João, and Natalie was already there waiting for us.
Today, since the 3 of us had reservations, we could arrive later, which gave us time to look around and have lunch in Baiona.
Then I took advantage of the place having a free washing machine and did my laundry, and then hung the clothes on the line.
While we drank a beer that Natalie had kindly gone to buy while she waited for us, we decided to make the most of the time. So, while the clothes dried in the wind, Reimão sewed his socks, Natalie sewed my flag and I, hands-on as ever, gave his feet a massage.
Before going to dinner I still took in the clothes that had already dried.
Then we walked to the riverside, where the 3 of us had dinner at the restaurant Rúcula Burger, where I had a Galician zorza with chips and egg.
Another day and another stage done, tomorrow I'm heading to Vigo.