Santiago de Compostela: Coastal Way and Spiritual Variant
Travel diary by Romeu Maia15 days · 15 May 2023 – 29 May 2023
Romeu Maia's diary of the Camino de Santiago along the Coastal Way and the Spiritual Variant: 15 stages on foot, from 15 to 29 May 2023, from Porto Cathedral to Santiago de Compostela and back to Porto.
According to the certificate, the Coastal Way from Porto is 280 km; adding the spiritual variant and the walks around the places where he stayed overnight, a fellow walker's app recorded 417 km.
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Day 1 · 15 May 2023
Porto – Vila do Conde (35 km)
Leaving Porto Cathedral at 7 am, the stone ritual at the Boa Nova chapel and a full hostel that meant walking another 8 km to Vila do Conde.
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Day 2 · 16 May 2023
Vila do Conde – Marinhas, Esposende (27 km)
A 27 km stage along the coast to Marinhas with Natalie, a stop in Apúlia, two big dogs on the beach and dinner in Esposende.
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Day 3 · 17 May 2023
Marinhas, Esposende – Viana do Castelo (21 km)
Inland to Viana do Castelo, with five churches and three chapels, an improvised terrace in the mountains and the climb up Santa Luzia hill.
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Day 4 · 18 May 2023
Viana do Castelo – A Guarda (32 km)
A 32 km stage from Viana do Castelo to A Guarda, with a boat crossing of the River Minho into Spain, haggled down to €5 a head.
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Day 5 · 19 May 2023
A Guarda – Oia (16 km)
An easy 16 km stage by the sea to the O Serrano hostel in Oia, with reunions, snooker and an evening on a terrace.
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Day 6 · 20 May 2023
Oia – Nigrán (25 km)
From Oia to Nigrán via Cape Silleiro, Baiona and the Ramallosa Roman Bridge, with lunch in Baiona, laundry done and dinner as a group.
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Day 7 · 21 May 2023
Nigrán – Vigo (18 km)
Walking separately to Vigo, with a stop at Samil beach, a climb up Monte do Castro and the job of blister nurse to the pilgrims.
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Day 8 · 22 May 2023
Vigo – Redondela (15 km)
A short stage to Redondela, with a €11 lunch, an unexpected guided tour of the Convento de VillaVella, a free city tour and dinner with pilgrims.
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Day 9 · 23 May 2023
Redondela – Pontevedra (20 km)
A 20 km stage to Pontevedra, with the Sampaio Medieval Bridge, a stroll round the old town and Natalie's challenge: no alcohol and no pork.
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Day 10 · 24 May 2023
Pontevedra – Santa Maria de Armenteira Monastery (20 km)
A 20 km mountain stage to Armenteira Monastery with no accommodation booked, a rented prefab house and a dip in the river.
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Day 11 · 25 May 2023
Armenteira Monastery – Vilanova de Arousa (25 km)
A 25 km descent along the Route of Stone and Water to Vilanova de Arousa, with a dip in the ria, mussels for dinner and the challenge going on.
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Day 12 · 26 May 2023
Vilanova de Arousa – Pontecesures – Santiago de Compostela
A boat trip from Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures and a walk to Santiago, arriving at 7 pm to a group of familiar pilgrims waiting.
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Day 13 · 27 May 2023
Santiago de Compostela
A quiet day in Santiago: the Camino certificate, a postcard, the Pilgrim monument on Monte do Gozo and a last dinner with the pilgrims.
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Day 14 · 28 May 2023
Santiago de Compostela – Porto
Last day in Santiago with a city tour, a Ferris wheel and a visit to Santiago's tomb, then back to Porto by train and bus, arriving after 10 pm.
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Day 15 · 29 May 2023
Porto
Last day in Porto: Natalie's passport stamped, a walk along the Douro riverside to the river mouth and the final verdict on the Camino.