Nigrán – Vigo (18 km)
21 May 2023
By Romeu MaiaLast night we decided each of us would leave at a different time and walk alone for a day. So it was agreed that I would start out for Vigo at 8 am. João left at 7 am, since he has blisters and walks more slowly, and Natalie left after me, at 8:30 am.
So in the morning each one set off at the agreed time. It was 15 min to 10 am when I made my first stop at a viewpoint, admiring the view of Playa de Samil.
I was sitting eating an apple and a cheese, ham and egg sandwich I had prepared when Benilde, from Switzerland, whom I met yesterday at lunch, walks past me and tells me João was a few metres behind her. And so it was: right after, João crossed paths with me and told me he had stopped for a coffee and then carried on alone, as we had agreed.
I stayed to finish my snack and then came down from the viewpoint towards the beach. When I got down to Playa de Samil, I went straight into the water to wet my feet and walk a little with my feet in the water to cool them, and how good that felt.
Then I started hearing the sound of cars running and went to see what it was and ended up watching a model car race right there next to me. The cars go at crazy speed and I even saw a few go off the track.
Then I carried on to the centre of Vigo and on the way I did the stone ritual and walked 3 laps around the church of San Miguel de Bouzas.
Arriving at the Vigo hostel, which is modern and cost only €8, João and Natalie were already there and the reunions with other pilgrims I had met in previous days began.
Some decided to climb Monte do Castro Park with me and on the way we stopped at a terrace for a beer and an ice cream. Once up there we could see what remains of the castle wall and there was even time for a little nap stretched out on the lawn.
Then we went back to the hostel to rest a bit but the job of nurse fell to me, so many were the female pilgrims with blisters on their feet, among them the Russian Daria, who had the feet in the worst state and who joined our group. There was a queue at the surgery and I had a whale of a time sticking needles in and leaving threads in the pilgrims' feet.
After finishing my nurse job, 6 of us went for dinner at Taberna A Pedra, where I had grilled squid with potatoes and salad, and a beer. For dessert we shared a cheesecake, chocolate cake and the Santiago almond tart. All of that for €23.
On the way back to the hostel, with the cold setting in, we started putting on each other's clothes to walk back, and how nice I looked in Natalie's jacket and glasses.
Now it's time to go and rest, because tomorrow all pilgrims must leave the hostel before 8 am.