Day 2 · Santiago de Compostela: Coastal Way and Spiritual Variant

Vila do Conde – Marinhas, Esposende (27 km)

16 May 2023

By Romeu Maia

Today I left the Vila do Conde hostel for the Marinhas hostel, in Esposende, at 6:30 in the morning, with 27 km ahead of me.

Today I didn't want to risk being left at the door of the hostels again because they were full. You can't reserve a place, beds are given out in order of arrival from 2 pm.

The way went along the coast and just as I arrived in Póvoa de Varzim I met Natalie, from Germany, who kept us company on this stage.

While we were chatting, Natalie asked me where I had got my shell, she didn't have one, so I decided to give her one of mine.

The day before I had given a spare pilgrim passport to Mariola, from Sweden, who had forgotten to buy one.

The way went along the coast and, after Póvoa de Varzim, there were long km in which we saw little more than dunes and windmills, golf courses and farmland.

Once in Apúlia, we stopped to rest and have something at a seaside terrace and get the first stamp of the day.

Then we carried on until we crossed the River Cávado, to get a 2nd stamp in the passport, at the start of Esposende, in a souvenir shop at the end of the bridge.

It was already 12:30 pm and there were still about 5 km to walk to the hostel. The last hour was hard going, but we made it and got to the hostel when there were 15 min left before it opened its doors, with only 3 people ahead of us. Mission accomplished and the night at the hostel secured.

Once settled in and showered, we went to the supermarket to buy something to eat and drink and headed to Cepães beach to enjoy the afternoon.

I was at the water's edge, out for a stroll and getting my feet wet, when I see 2 big dogs (1 German shepherd and 1 Dobermann) come charging towards me at full tilt, with their owner further back running after them.

My first reaction was to put my hand in my pocket to grab my phone and get into the water before the dogs reached me.

Fortunately it all went well and neither dog showed me its teeth, even though they threw themselves into the water next to me and sniffed me. In the end the owner managed to call them back and I was able to get out of the water safe and sound.

They did tell me to take a walking stick for the way, that even if it was no use for anything else it could serve to scare off any dog that turned up on my path.

Then I went back to the hotel late in the afternoon to have a shower and get ready for dinner in the centre of Esposende, at the restaurant Papa Fina, where Cláudia joined the three of us.

Another stage done without major damage to my feet. Tomorrow I'm heading to Viana do Castelo.

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